Tools

best electric weed wacker
Electric weed wacker to do the job instead of human hands. In general, there are some basic types of the weed wacker as:

– Self-propelled weed wacker: self-propelled weed whacker powered type of engine thrust. When the engine operation, the engine will be born with some of the machines rotates. This torque is transmitted to the actuator of the machine and finally, to the wheels of the machine makes the machine move.
– Mowers driver: this is the format used a weed wacker to cut the grass area of the flat terrain. Finished cutting the grass is collected in barrels collected by the vacuum of the machine.
– Mowers pushing hands: do not use the engine type, this means moving series is due to human propulsion.
When the wheel is turning at the funeral was also recently wrapped filming grass weed wrap and put into the gap between evidence and blade of grass and the grass is cut then.
This machine is very suitable for small gardens and very good for middle-aged and elderly.
Lawn just moderate exercise can improve the human condition, improve the elderly’s health.
– Mowers bring shoulders: this is the weed wacker is used most commonly.

In addition to cutting grass, they are used to cut rice, cut small trees as forest clearance
The newest type of weed wacker use electricity to run, so how to use the best electric weed wacker. Take a look at our guide

Electric weed wacker
Electric lawn mowers are broken down into the model and wireless phones.Both are relatively quiet, often produced less than 75 decibels, while a petrol weed wacker as 95 decibels can grow older.

Electrical wire cutters (corded electric weed wacker) is limited to the extent of their power cord tails, which can restrict the use of the lawns extending to the outside than 30-45m from the nearest power outlet is available.
There is an additional danger to the machine accidentally cut through cables, which stops the mower and could put users at risk of receiving an electric shock hazard.
Install a residual current device (GFCI) into the socket can reduce the risk of shock.
Electric mowers Wireless (Cordless electric weed wacker) is supported by a number of rechargeable battery (typically 1-4) 12-volt / battery charger.
Typically, larger battery means more running time.
The battery can be placed in the interior of the weed wacker or outside.
If outdoors, depleted batteries can be quickly exchanged with rechargeable batteries.Cordless mowers maneuverability of a gasoline-powered mower and environmental friendliness of a wire cutter, but more expensive and less available in models (especially self-propelled) than both.

Using electric weed wacker effective:
– Wear protective gear when operating the machine.
– Do not let the blade crash into hard objects during cutting.
– The region must operate the distant people and things in a radius of 15m.
– Do not touch the blade when the machine has not stopped spinning.
– Do not start the machine when it detects damage or loose screws.

Check the weed wacker before operation
– Check the blade
– Check the tightening of bolts and screws of the blade.
– Check the warping of the blade.
Launch electric weed wacker
– Turn the switch “OFF” position to the “ON” to close
– Pull the hand pulling the strings until both hands are hard quickly and decisively pull the remaining piece of wire to the engine.
Stand machine
– Brushing smallest throttle position
– India closed position switch in “OFF”
– The air filter
– Remove the air filter out.
– Wash the air filter with kerosene.
– Installation of the wind filter and hood on the machine after cleaning.
Maintenance spark plug
– Remove the spark plug 3.1 out spark plug cap. Remove the spark plug out.
– Hygiene in extreme grime cling spark
– Check the spark plug gap poles, appropriate openings of 0.6 – 0.7 mm.
Curing weed wacker
– Check the air filter when operating the machine.
– Check blade of grass, throttle cable openings, safety status bolts, nuts when operating the machine.
– Clean the air filter after 50 hours of work
– Trigger gap adjustment after every 100 hours of operation
– Check the machine and parts, if not boot
– Remove the parts and dust filter bags if there are not rules
If the machine does not boot please bring dealers to repair.

Tools

If you ever need to spit wood by hand, one of the best and most versatile tools you can use is the simple splitting maul. How can you find out the best types of splitting mauls? How are they used and how many different sizes are there? To find the answers to these questions and more, read on.

What is a splitting maul and how is it different than an axe?

A maul is basically a thick axe and sledgehammer combo. Its main purpose as a tool is to split wood. Its weight can range from anywhere between 6-12 pounds and its handles are usually 30-36″ in length. You’ll rarely find mauls with sharp edges and they are often thick in terms of structure. The reason for this is because of their purpose which is to split wood up. While a chopping axe may be meant for chopping wood against the grain, a maul goes with the grain to split wood. This is why it’s important for them to be thick instead of sharp.
The Firewood Splitting Maul
Advantages and Disadvantages

While mauls may be the most versatile wood splitting tool available, they do have disadvantages to go along with their advantages.

What’s good about the splitting maul:

For the purpose of splitting difficult species of wood, they are much better than axes. They get the job done much better than an axe due to their shape, size, and weight.

The back of the maul is basically a sledgehammer, so it can be used to pound steel splitting wedges into really hard pieces of wood.

Using one may take less effort when compared to an axe especially for difficult species of wood such as red maple. Again, because of the sheer weight it possesses, just one properly placed blow is usually all that’s needed to split most types of wood that need splitting.

What’s not so great:

The sheer amount of weight can be a drawback too. Axes are considerably better if you’re splitting easy-to-split pieces that won’t require more than a few swings. If you have a lot of wood to process, you may want to reconsider.

The heavy weight also makes them quite difficult to control. Accuracy may suffer when using a splitting maul which can sometimes make you feel that the splitting maul is the one swinging you.

Regardless of whether you want to exclusively use axes, a wood splitter or even cheap labor, you should make it a point to get a maul anyway. It will be one of the handiest tools you will ever get a hold of and you definitely won’t regret getting it.

Depending on your strength, you may want to get either the 6 or 8 pound model. Most people find the 6-pound maul just right. They help you get really strong swings without tiring you out. Some mauls weight over 12 pounds each and some people find them useless, mainly because of their weight.

Handles are available in both fiberglass and wood. Fiberglass handles are highly recommended because they don’t break as easily as the wooden ones. Wooden handles usually take just a few hard missed hits before starting to break. Fiberglass handles rarely break and they usually last years of heavy use.

Still, some people prefer wooden handles more, if only because of the good feel that the wooden handle offers. If you are used to swinging mauls and axes and are quite accurate in your swing, they’re worth getting.

As with most other tools you can buy, you get what you pay for. These usually cost between 20-70 dollars a piece. Fortunately, a quality splitting maul should be able to last for your whole life.

Tools

Identifying the type of firewood to use is very significant, for this allows you to know what kind of trees to cut down and utilize. Doing tree identification requires different processes depending on what species is being determined. However, the easiest way to arrive with information is to analyze a trees particular form and foliage.

Before anything else, one should meticulously inspect the trees from and shape, and from then on begin to narrow down the possibilities. An example of this would be the maple tree, which naturally has an upright oval shape. Another example would be the spruce tree, which naturally has whorled branches and a pyramidal shape, very similar to that of a Christmas tree. Determining the trees species according to its form and shape is a good way to start on tree identification.
Selecting Good Firewood
Trees vary in their foliage as well for some have broad leaves while others have thin needles. Generally, those that have leaves are the deciduous trees trees that occasionally shed their foliage. Trees with lush needles usually do not shed, and are more popularly known as Evergreens. Deciduous trees are the better firewood species for they have lesser moisture content.

Analyzing the trees physical composition is the first step in firewood identification, but the process requires more detailed processes in order to come up with a more accurate information about the tree.

Four Characteristics to Look Out For

There are four significant factors you need to take into consideration for an accurate tree identification. Among these are the bark, the branching, the leaves, and the conditions of the site. A tree can be distinguished through its bark, but some trees have very similar barks in terms of look and feel, so you may have to consider the other factors. However, if a the tree has a unique bark, then this could be one no-fuss way of distinguishing it among the others. An example of this would be the shagbark hickory that has vertically peeling barks enveloping it. Sycamore trees can be distinguished by the speckled look of their barks. For some trees, analyzing the bark can be a good way to come up with firewood identification.

Another efficient way to conduct an tree identification is analyzing the way it branches. Branching refers to the way the branches sprout from the tree. It can be either alternate or opposite. Trees that are oppositely branched have sprouting branches that grow with symmetry. Knowing how a tree branches can help you determine what kind of tree it is, for not all trees have opposite branches. Only certain types of trees opposite branch, so determine what they are to arrive with a more accurate identification.

One of the easiest ways to determine the species of a tree is by looking at its leaves. Most people analyze a trees leaves in order to find out its type. A lot of people know the distinguishing look of a maple leaf, but having the skills to differentiate a ref maples leaf to a sugar maples leaf can give you the best species for firewood. Another thing you can inspect is the trees fruits or flowers if there are any.

The last factor to consider is the trees location, which requires just a bit of common sense. Where does the tree stand? Does it thrive in a wet area? Are there any specific vegetation surrounding the tree? Knowing the trees environment can sometimes tell you more about the tree than the tree itself, so dont forget to take this into consideration. If you analyze these four tree characteristics, you can master firewood identification easily.

Is it possible to identify a tree without leaves?

It might be surprising to find out that a tree can be easily identified even without its leaves. A lot of people become dependent on looking at a trees leaves when it comes to identification. The truth of the matter is, identification can sometimes be much easier when a tree has no leaves. The form, branch, and bark of a tree is easier to identify without the foliage on it, but when it comes to identifying trees in winter, another method must be employed.

When winter prohibits you from making a good inspection of the tree, try looking at the trees buds. Tree buds unfold and produce flowers and leave in spring time, and they vary in size, shape and color. If you know how the different types of tree buds, then you will know what type of tree you are inspecting.
Is it possible to identify wood that has already been cut?

Identifying wood that has already been cut can be challenging, and this is one of the things that you have to learn especially if you’re purchasing firewood. The only characteristics you can inspect on cut wood is its wood grain, bark, and color. When wood has been seasoned, however, wood color might not be a dependable identification factor. Wood tends to turn a grayish color the longer it has been dried, and in turn look just like any other wood. The best thing to do is to purchase your wood from a reputable firewood company that you can trust. This way, you don’t need to fret about purchasing bad wood.

Tools

The installation of a vegetable garden or the maintenance of a garden does not necessarily necessitate a very important material but it is preferable to choose well its gardening tools and to make sure that they are adapted to the different tasks to which you The destinies. So take the time to choose your tools according to the size of your garden and the work you will carry out.

– Shears: This tool is part of the scissors family. Several criteria are to consider when choosing your pair of shears. To cut soft wood or young shoots, choose a straight blade. The corrugated blade is better suited for cutting harder branches, or for cutting more irregular hedges.

Note: Handle lining is important for good grip.
– The log saw: This tool is composed of an electric motor or a thermal motor which drives a circular blade of a greater or lesser diameter. This set is called the cutting group. The latter is mounted on a tilting arm which is actuated manually.


Note: For logging, the logs are placed on an easel equipped with an adjustable stop according to the chosen cutting width. Besides, you can use gas powered pole saw for the best result.

– The cutter: Otherwise called a branch cutter, it is ideal for cutting branches of large diameter and presents itself as a large pruning shears with long arms equipped with handles.

Note: There are telescopic cutters with an extendable handle that can be oriented.

– The scraper: Ideal for cutting hard wood or green wood, the scraper is a real telescopic cutter. It can be blades with an open cut or anvil, or with a swivel head for more maneuverability.
– The ax: It is an auxiliary tool that is mainly used for cutting wood. The ax is made of a metal or steel blade, connected to a hardwood handle.
Note: It is advisable to choose a double-curved ax handle to hold the ax firmly. The handle should always be the length of your arm.

TOOLS FOR YOUR SELLER

– The spreader: The function of this device is to sow or distribute the fertilizers. Whatever the type of spreader, the principle is always the same: seeds or fertilizer balls are placed in a tank at the bottom of which a device disperses them regularly on the surface of the ground. It generally has a cylinder and a dispersion wheel, and is mounted on castors for simple use.

– The rake: A traditional rake consists of a long handle at the end of which is fixed an iron work head equipped with straight or curved teeth. The straight tooth tool lets you level the soil by making it more loose, while the curved tooth model is more suitable for moving gravel.

Note: To collect the leaves, prefer a rake of the “fan” type, because its head formed of several long and thin branches makes it possible to trap the dead leaves and to defoct large surfaces.

– The scarifier: It is a manual, electric or thermal device equipped with a toothed scarifier roller, with claws or with sharp knives. Scarifier means lacerating the plant layer that forms on the surface of the lawn to promote its good growth.

The manual model is reserved for small gardens, because it consists of a work head mounted on wheels and operated with a single handle. The electric and thermal models have the appearance of a mower and have a real working comfort in the grip. They allow the maintenance of large spaces.

Note: Beware of the proximity of an electrical outlet for the electric model.
– Fake: It is a tool composed of a handle, two handles, a blade and an assembly ring. The handle can be made of steel or wood with fixed or adjustable handles. The blades can be short to cut hard stems (brush, brambles, thistles …) or long to cut tender stems (grass and other grasses …)

– Thermal weeder: All models operate according to the same principle. They heat the weed to more than 90 ° and proceed to its elimination while preserving the environment. The weeder may be a direct flame, operating with a gas bottle. It makes it possible to heat the plant without burning it. The thermal model projects water at more than 90 ° in the form of steam or jet. The infrared model uses infrared radiation to produce heat.

Tools

A beautiful lawn it is maintained! Discover how to maintain your lawn in a few gestures. Here are the care to bring to your lawn step by step.

TurfEliminate mosses:
– Apply an antifoam to the affected areas.
– Leave for 10 to 15 days then scarify.

Scarce:
For removing foam, felting and loosening soil.
– After a first mowing down, scarify your lawn on wet ground, neither soggy nor too dry.
– Proceed by crossing to avoid any unscarified area.
– Carefully collect foam and waste material.

Mow:
The quality and frequency of mowing depends on the beauty of a lawn. This cut causes grass tufts to thicken and eliminate the seedling of certain weeds.

Hardware:

• mower
• Lawn mower. Read our zero turn lawn mower reviews here!
Advice :
Sharpen the blade of your mower regularly so that the cutting of the strands is sharp. When they are frayed, the appearance of the lawn is yellowish and the risk of disease is greater.

Good to know :
Mulching mowers do not pick up the cuts because they grind the grass very finely. But it is good to alternate mulching and conventional mowing to avoid too much accumulation of plant debris on the lawn.
Remove dead branches and pebbles

To avoid any risk of throwing or damage to the lawn and mower deck, run your lawn in all directions before starting to mow. Pick up toys, pebbles, dead branches or other hard objects lying on the ground.

Cut around obstacles
With a hand mower, self-propelled or not, begin by cutting around the obstacles: tree trunks, curbs, alleys, feet of fences, etc. If you do not pick up the cuts, eject them towards the inside of the lawn.

Lawnmower without pick-up
If you are using a lawnmower with no lateral ejection, this should be done on the left, starting by turning it counterclockwise to avoid spraying on the aisles or the massifs. Do three or four turns. Then reverse your rotation so that the cuts are sent to the already mown part.

Pick-up mower

With a pick-up device, it is preferable to mow back and forth. Once in two, cross the direction of walking so as not to trample the lawn always in the same place.

In spring and autumn it is advisable to collect grass cuts, as the grass is greasy and dries out slowly. If you do not have a collection bin, use a lawn mop over the surface and use the mowing to make a good compost.
– Mow when grass exceeds 4 to 5 cm. Do not cut more than one third of the strand.
– With the conventional lawnmower: pick up the cut grass to prevent it from suffocating the grass.
– With a mulcher: double the frequency of mowing in times of strong growth of the vegetation.
– Summer mowing and last autumn mowing: mow one notch higher.
– Every two or three mowings, “redraw” your paths and edges with a hand or battery grass cutter.
– Be careful to sharpen the blade for a clean cut without tearing.

Ressemez and ride:
– Select a high-quality sodding turf, composed of a mixture of the best grasses.
– Distribute the seeds regularly on the stripped areas.
– Superficially bury the seed in the rake.
– Pass the roller to promote contact between the seeds and the soil.
– For maintenance pass the roller in order to keep the lawn flat and favor the density of your lawn.
Fertilize:
– Apply a suitable seasonal grass fertilizer to the spreader (gradual release for green, dense, and resistant grass).
– Water regularly so that the water carries the nutrients.
– Observe the doses and periods of application recommended on the packaging.

Weed Control:
– Little invaded lawn: remove the weeds by hand on wet ground and taking care to remove the roots.
– Very invaded lawn: spread a grass selective herbicide on wet soil.
– Respect the doses and conditions of use recommended on the packaging.
– Limit the development of weeds: by regularly cutting but especially by scarifying.
Watering:
– Water uniformly and without puddling, from 5 to 10 liters / m² (15 to 20 minutes with an automatic sprinkler).
– Proceed in the evening to limit evaporation and waste.
– Prefer a copious and spaced watering to a superficial and frequent watering.
Clean the lawn:
– Remove broken branches that have fallen on the grass
– Trace the contours of your lawn using a trimmer.
– In autumn collect dead leaves using a round-toothed fan blaster, mower or blower.
Fight against moles and ants:
Keep moles and ants away with a suitable treatment product or material. Rake the molehills with rake and then replenish grass.